Mud Hole
I think I’ve mentioned this before, but the Cruising Guide to the Maine Coast never fails. Yes I am travelling north based on the MITA island trail, but the Cruising Guide is the bible, and the Island Trail book should be used as a reference for access and campsites. The reality is, the MITA islands are basically open for kayakers. With a boat you can pretty much go wherever you want and you don’t need to camp or even access the shore. That is how you find the best places.
Five stars in the Crusing Guide is not easy to do. The criteria includes beauty, amenities, things to do, etc, and since there are no amenities in Mud Hole it must be pretty spectacular. I knew I had to go, and it didn’t disappoint.
I entered at high tide following the approach advice closely. It is a narrow cove, and ledges abound. It was one of the quietest places I’ve ever been. I like to feel like an explorer, and even though I was reading about how to enter the cove, it was so desolate and quiet I felt like I was not only the only person there, I was also the first person there.
I anchored the boat and got her prepared for anchor by getting out the grill for lunch and moving the cushions to create the distinct living spaces I like to have to cook, relax, write, read and lie down. There’s not much space on the Emilie, so you need to use it all wisely.
I’d read about a hike along the South shore, and took the Gary in to tie up like the guide had suggested. I saw a white lobster buoy on a tree, and some line attached to a dead tree stump, and figured that would be a sign for a welcoming shoreline, so I tied up. A trail led up to the main trail from that spot, and I planned to walk out to the head of Mud Hole before lunch, and then do the entire loop the next morning.
It was an amazing hike. I couldn’t stop. It led through the forest along the ridge above Mud Hole, and opened on to the shore where the trail continued to the head along the shore with blue dots and carins to show the way. It was a good two miles out to the head, and since I knew it was around 4.5 miles, it seemed silly to turn around. My only concern was my dinghy since the tide was going out, and I’d only checked for a couple feet of depth since I only thought I’d be gone an hour, two max. But I quickly decided I would swim out to the boat if caught in that predicament, which actually seemed like the best option!
Reminded me of Acadia, but with no people. Like Acadia in the fall, but more remote. Technically you can drive to Great Wass Island off Jonesport, but I don’t think a lot of people do.
Only problem was the clam farm. I had seen several salmon pens on the way in, but read about this project happenigng in Mud Hole and it made me realize I am not a fan of aquaculture. I realize they need industry up here, but they are taking away a major source of income by making the place less beautiful. And less crusiable. Several of the pens were in the middle of critical channels and made navigation far more difficualt.
The trail continued around the head, and then entered the woods again for another two miles back to the parking lot, which I would then pass to get back to Mud Hole. There were lots of older people out at the head of the trail heading to the parking lot, and I quickly realized it must be an easier path because they were clearly not resting to continue, and had reached their destination, so they were going back the same way. Seeing them confirmed my desire to do and see everything I can and work into retirement. I can sit at a desk when I am 65. I can’t hike the Andes!
I got back and Gary was floating perfectly where I had left her, albeit 4 feet down. Good thing the walls are steep to the cove. I mentioned the guide calls it a fiord. It is a tiny fiord at best, but does have steep walls. I was starving and thirsty when I got to the boat after my unexpected 4.5 mile hike without lunch or water. Made sausages and burgers and had pickles and chips and salsa. A perfect Emilie Belle meal, that would also become dinner.
Tide slowly filling in.
Birds diving and harassing like fighter pilots, an osprey diving successfully for a fish then proudly flying off with the live dinner it its talons.
Sunset.
Wash, rinse, repeat. One place better than the next.
It was a full moon that night, and part of the reason I’d come into Mud Hole was to be in one of the most beautiful places on the Maine coast for the full moon. I’d never really paid much attention or planned for the moon, simply noticed when it was full. But I now have a thing where I am paying closer attention. Not sure why yet, but I am and it was an amazing night to be there.
The osprey nabbing a fish 20 yards away.
