Sunday River
2019 Tour Stop #1 – First Impressions
I’m slightly embarrassed to admit how little I really knew about Sunday River heading into this season. I skied it a few times as a kid, but in the past twenty years I’d only been back twice, and if I’m honest, I always defaulted to Sugarloaf. The River felt wide and low, spread across seven peaks without the vertical punch I prefer, and it was hard to justify the drive past Bethel when the Loaf was waiting. But with the IKON pass in hand and seven days to use, this became the first stop on what would turn into a long ski tour, and getting back to Barker reminded me that while it may not have Sugarloaf’s raw feel, it has its own logic if you ski it intentionally. Start where you want to be, avoid unnecessary traverses, and accept that it’s more about managing space than chasing pitch. I still leaned Sugarloaf at the time — but Sunday River made a stronger case than I expected.
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Opening Snapshot (Current Perspective)
Sunday River has quietly become the infrastructure leader in Maine.
In 2019, Barker’s high-speed quad was already more efficient than anything at Sugarloaf.
Now:
Jordan 8 is one of the most impressive high-speed 8-pack lifts in New England.
Barker 6 dramatically improves the most strategic starting pod on the mountain.
Sugarloaf still wins for terrain personality and sustained vertical.
But lift-for-lift? Sunday River has pulled ahead.
On a mountain that spreads across seven peaks, that upgrade changes everything.
Getting There & Parking Strategy
Barker Lodge remains the move.
It’s slightly risky because it fills early — but if you land a spot, you win the morning.
Why Barker works:
Direct access to both Barker and Locke
Strong terrain variety immediately
No early cross-mountain traverses
Efficient vertical stacking
With the Barker 6 upgrade, this zone now handles volume better than it ever has.
If you park at a satellite lot and shuttle to South Ridge, you’re already behind.
Start where you want to ski.
How to Ski It (The Insider Plan)
Sunday River is not intuitive.
It is a sequencing mountain.
Phase 1 – Vertical First
Lap Barker/Locke early. Build momentum. Let others migrate first.
Phase 2 – Commit to the Move
If conditions justify it, make the push to Oz and Jordan.
Jordan Bowl now skis completely differently because of the Jordan 8. What used to feel like a once-or-twice lap zone is now repeatable.
Phase 3 – Don’t Get Stuck Commuting
Avoid agreeing to “meet at White Heat.”
White Heat is iconic. It is also a time commitment from nearly everywhere.
Unless conditions are exceptional, it’s rarely the most efficient use of time.
What most first-timers do wrong:
They underestimate distance. The map lies. Traverses add up.
Terrain Personality
Sunday River is:
Wide
Lateral
Snowmaking-heavy
Pod-based
It does not have Sugarloaf’s vertical drama.
It does have:
Distinct terrain zones
Better lift redundancy
More modern infrastructure
Spruce and Aurora offer strong intermediate skiing.
Oz and Jordan deliver the best expert terrain.
Barker/Locke provide the most efficient lap stacking.
It skis like a horizontally stretched resort that now finally has the lift system to support it.
Midday Strategy
Ski through lunch when conditions are good.
Because of the layout, stopping at noon can fragment your day.
Pack strategically — which leads to one of your best long-standing moves.
Eating (Pre-Mountain Strategy)
The real pro move is off-mountain:
Beth's Kitchen Cafe
Breakfast all day
Excellent baked goods
Sandwiches packed early
Closes at 3PM
It’s slightly out of the way from Portland depending on your route — but worth it.
Grab breakfast, pack lunch, ski uninterrupted.
On-mountain dining rotates seasonally, but Summit-area food programming has historically been better than average for Maine.
The large brewpub on the access road? Popular. Functional. Lacks character.
Après & Drinking
Sunday River après is controlled.
Some of the better bar energy has historically been on-mountain, which is unusual in New England.
Bethel leans quiet rather than chaotic.
This is not Killington Access Road energy.
On the ski bro scale: low to moderate.
Where to Stay
Day Trip Reality
For Portland skiers, this remains a strong day mission.
💀 Rustic Option
Nature Through Nurture
Woodstove. Sauna. Yoga. Rustic.
Not luxury. Not effortless. But character-rich and reasonably priced.
Slopeside Convenience
Jordan and Grand Summit lodging for lift-first mornings.
Condition Playbook
Powder Day:
Jordan 8 makes repeat laps realistic. Commit early.
Wind Day:
Lower pods and trees.
Ice Day:
Barker/Locke for consistent pitch and edge hold.
Spring Day:
Wide exposure allows sun chasing across peaks.
Final Verdict (Then vs Now)
In 2019, I still leaned Sugarloaf without hesitation.
Today, the conversation is more balanced.
Sugarloaf wins on raw terrain feel and vertical continuity.
But Sunday River has invested aggressively in lift modernization — and it shows.
The Jordan 8 and Barker 6 fundamentally change how efficiently this mountain skis.
It may never feel as cohesive as the Loaf.
But it is no longer second-tier infrastructure.
And that matters.
How to get around:
Sunday River is one of the resorts that made me realize this section could be very helpful for friends and family when thinking about how to approach and navigate a ski area. There are seven peaks with very distinct areas, and if you don’t know the right trails to take, it can be incredibly frustrating to navigate.
Eating:
My favorite spot to eat is actually on the way to Sunday River, a small-town sandwich shop that has great breakfast and lunch. It is a perfect stop on the way up for a coffee/tea and a bite to eat while waiting for your lunch to be made to save time and money by bringing lunch to the mountain. The place is called Beth’s Kitchen Café and it is in Bridgton, Maine. Right on the way to Sunday River, depending the route you take.
They have breakfast all day, incredible baked goods, and make lunch sandwiches in the morning. It’s the perfect stop before or after skiing, whatever you are craving. Be careful: they are only open until 3PM, so you need to leave the slopes early if you are craving breakfast after skiing. If you ski through lunch, you can just make it in time for some afternoon breakfast. And they have amazing dinner entrees to bring home, but you have to make it before 3PM.
Beth’s is slightly out of the way when driving from Portland, but the detour is worth it. And there are some other cool things about Bridgton.
Drinking:
The best bar I found in the Bethel area is actually on the mountain, which is rare.
Don’t be fooled by the big brewpub on the way up. It has no character and average beer. Nothing against them, it is just not my kind of place. Check for yourself.
Accommodation:
I don’t ever stay at Sunday River since it is such a close day trip from Portland. But I would recommend Nature through Nurture. I am a big fan of woodstoves, saunas, and yoga. This place has it all. It is rustic, and there’s not much easy about it, but it is close enough, and reasonably priced, so would be my choice as a place to stay.
Chairlift Diary:
