1.18.2018 Tremblant
South side of Mountain
North side of mountain
Refuge for lunch
Kitshy town
Everything you need, overpriced
Microbrewery
Casino
Manitonga Hostel
La Savoie Fondue Dinner
Frostbite
Fairmont
Overview:
Tremblant is cold. But Tremblant is really cool. So cool that even after getting frostbite on both of my big toes, I still loved the place. There is no question the town feels a bit contrived, kitshy and essentially has the feel of a resort-owned town (which it is), but they have done it in a nice way that makes it one of the better ski experiences on the East Coast
Tremblant is a great option for Northeasters when they want to have a real ski vacation. It feels like you are in a different country, and not just because you are. Obviously you need a passport to cross the border, but In Quebec, they speak French, and can be assholes just like the French! I’m half kidding. I love Montreal, and I love Quebec City even more. Tremblant felt like a ski trip to Quebec City, even if it is a bit more resorty, and Disney-esque. If you find the right places, you can make it feel like a legit Austrian experience.
Parking:
Parking is reasonable if you park down in the lower lot, and there is an open-air tram to take you up to the base where you get tickets. I mention it is open air because it is the coldest mountain I’ve even been to, and I’m pretty sure my frostbite on that trip was caused by the time I spent getting ready to ski in the parking lot and then the open-air tram ride up to the base lodge. I was frozen before I even got on the chair.
I got up early and followed Jonathan’s advice and parked down in the center of the mountainside village, and took the free lift up to the base of the mountain. I didn’t look too hard at the prices, and parked as close as I could to limit my walk in ski boots. Not necessarily a mistake, but I ended up paying $20, half the price of might hostal nightly rate, to park. I don’t know what the difference is with the other lots, but I have a feeling the shorter ski boot walk was likely worth it. I got there at 9:30 AM and it was cold. My brother and his family met me on the mountain around 11AM and we had a great day of skiing. They had been there before, so I mainly followed them around the south side of the mountan that goes down to the village.
Local Knowledge:
I left at 7:30 AM to meet my brother for first lifts at 7:45. We had passes from the hotel to get out early, so we were taking advantage of it. It was freezing. I had to park in the same lot, get dressed, take out skis and re-organize things. I was freezing. I had to take a break after the chair from the parking lot to the base lodge. We got on one of the first gondolas, and made it to the top, looking forward to a cold ski down, and a nice warm gondola ride up. Unfortunately, we realized at the top that the south side of the mountain was not open until the normal 8:30 open, and we had to ski the lifts on the north side. That was fine, but was not looking forward to the cold lift rides up. The temps at the top were -14. Celsisus.
Skiing with my brother was really fun. He’s a great skier, and I asked him for some tips for my winter of Steve. Lean forward and carve with the inside edge of the downhill ski. I can do that. I just need to know what to work on.
How to get around:
Eating:
The highlight was the lunch / warming hut called the Refuge on the South Side. It was a classic log cabin with a wood burning stove and a simple menu of soups and sandwiches. There were no bathrooms other than some very basic outhouses outside and no running water. I loved it.
Dinner was what made it fell most like a European ski trip. La Savioie was a legit fondue restaurant, complete with the attitude. The wait staff was pleasant, but steadfast in sticking to the rules, and making the ordering process harder than it needed to be. All part of the experience, I suppose. The food was great, although not cheap, but my brother paid, so as the Spanish say, menos mal!
Checked out the Microbrasserie on the way back from the restaurant, which was cool. The food looked great. Jonathan had suggested I go there or the Casino when I’d arrived the night before. He mentioned that the skeleton crew from the hostel had all gone to the Casino for the Friday night party they have for the mountain staff. It sounded really fun, and I probably would have gone if I’d arrived earlier and met the crew, but honestly I was glad I hadn’t. I was ready for bed after getting up in Portland, driving to Loon, skiing at Loon, and then driving the remaining 5 hours through Montreal to Tremblant. No complaints though, a lot more of that ahead of me!
Drinking:
Accommodation:
One of the coolest things about Tremblant was the availability of a reasonably priced hostel, a nice international vibe and Hostel Manitonga didn’t disappoint. I walked in and was met by Jonathan, who I learned later is the owner. He was speaking French when I walked in, and when I asked where he was from he told me Chile, and we proceeded to have a conversation in Spanish. He recently bought the hostel in November after moving to Canada from Alice Springs, Australia. I’ve been to Alice Springs, and there is absolutely nothing there. I had a million questions for him, but focused on the check-in process to get to my bunk. He was in the middle of renovations so the place was not in the best shapre, but it had good bones, including a nice sitting space with a wood burning fireplace, a big kitchen with all the necessary appliances, and a large dining space with plenty of tables in front of a large bar. I’m sure he has grand plans for the bar, but it’s not there yet. I loved this place immediately when I walked in, mostly the idea of it, and that there are people that run these places, and patrons that stay in them. I hope I can find similar options when I get back down across the border.
I had the room to myself, and was told I would likely have it to myself the whole time I was there. It wasn’t going to be filled because there was still some construction going on outside. I went to bed early, after making some mental notes about how to pack the car and my bags so I can be more efficient when checking in and out of hostels. I had a lot of unnecessary trips back and forth to the car to get things I needed.
I got back to the hostal and found a pile of belongings in my room and realized I had been assigned a cell mate. It wasn’t the end of the world, but I wished Jonathan had been more clear about this possibility because I left the room like I was the only one staying there, and had brought up the majority of my belongings to repack. It was more embarrassing than anything else. I guess I need to get used to cellmates and living out of a bag/car. In truth, I like it, but the reality is I like the idea of it, and you never know what you are going to get.
That night, we finished skiing at the last lift and went to the Fairmont where they are staying. It is a great hotel with a totally ‘crashable’ spa/pool area that includes a warm pool, two hot tubs and a cold plunge. There is also a sauna and steam room in the locker room, and showers. It’s perfect for a grifter like me. Technically you need a key card to get in, but there is no full-time attendant, and it is mainly self serve, including a basket of locker keys on the counter when you walk in. It is a very welcome respite from the northern Canadian cold.
Conclusion:
Trip to Montreal was uneventful. Drove through the city, then headed down through Burlington until the snow got too bad. Pulled over in Willeston where I got a room for $90 per night with tax. I stayed two after realizing I had pretty bad frostbite on my big toe. Second degree, apparently, based on the blister that formed. I had no idea frostbite was exactly like a burn. Sophie would have known that.
So I rode out the storm in Willston. 20 Inches of snow. I was sorry to miss the skiing, but needed to take care of my toe, and it was still arctic blast cold.
Finally got out of Willeston on Monday, just in time to miss the crowds and headed to Sugarbush and my next hostel, Tevere Hostel.
The next morning was cold. I had to get packed and ready to go since I was planning to ski with Penn and then leave after the morning to make the trip to Montreal, and then Sugarbush. I didn’t have a place to stay at Sugarbush because they were booked for the Saturday of the long weekend, and only had Sunday available. So I was playing it by ear, which is my new MO.