Ram Island (Vinyl Haven)
I had heard the story of Margaret Wise Brown early this morning in Rockland. When I told my friend Martha where I was going and what I was doing, she mentioned she loves the anchorage on the west side of Vinyl Haven, and told me in passing that the children’s author Margaret Mills Brown (of Goodnight Moon fame) summered in a house in Hurricane Sound on Vinal Haven, and that her gravesite is there. I immediately thought that would be a great blogpost, but didn’t think of it again until I realized that when Martha told me about The Little Island book Margaret had written, it was actually about the MITA Ram Island in Hurricane Sound where I was anchored for the night. Such a cool piece of history and story to attach to a place. I’d never heard of the book, but I found a reading on YouTube that included the illustrations and was amazed to find out there had been another (more) famous children’s author from our small Bay. I’d grown up hearing about Robert McCloskey and his daughters Sal and Jane, but Goodnight Moon? That’s next level children’s book fame.
Margaret Wise Brown was an interesting character, and the kind that moves to Maine and immediately becomes enamored. She spent 14 seasons on Vinal Haven island, and probably would have stayed year-round if her house there had running water and electricity. She bought the old quarry master’s house, and called it The Only House because she didn’t own any other property. She came all summer and lived a life driven by the senses, jumping naked off her pier every morning into the chilly open ocean water filling in Hurricane Sound. She lived a very simple life, inviting guests into the past, using her small stream to chill white wine and
Stories like this are exactly why I’m and writing this blog. I would have loved to have heard that story and been able to meet Margaret to hear more about her connection to Maine and the islands. She seems like an amazing person, and ahead of her time.
I anchored off the Little Island (Ram) and spent the night on the boat rather than the campsite because the weather was so amazing. The campsite is in the dense trees of the small island, and although well protected from wind, it is not great for views. I stayed on the boat and enjoyed an incredible sunset, a burger on the grill, the postcard view of the Little Island Margaret Wise Brown enjoyed all summer, and a perfect crescent moon with a bright star just below. The Concordia symbol. I was slightly worried about the holding ground in the anchorage, but there wasn’t much wind, and the anchor was fine for the night.
One really interesting feature of Hurricane Sound, and a place definitely worth exploring is the Basin. I had been there one before in 20’ Grady White, navigated the narrow entrance that includes a boulder in the middle that forces you to choose your poison in terms of how to enter a channel where there is almost always current. There is enough water at high tide to go on either side, but it is nerve-wracking and includes enough current even at dead high to be daunting to even experienced boaters. But once in the Basin, it opens up and gets deeper than Hurricane Sound itself. Because of the narrow entrance, it is likely one of the most protected places on the Maine Coast, but the challenge is getting in. I took the Gary over, but the tide was already running out at a good clip, and I didn’t feel comfortable going against it in such a small boat. Not enough engine. If you can get there at dead high, you can get in in a dinghy and I highly recommend it. Don’t stay too long or you will be shooting rapids on the way out.
Hay Island
Far up in Seal Bay on Vinal Haven is Hay Island, a small island with a nice campsite. The is a great anchorage to the Northwest, with a sticky, muddy bottom and well protected from all wind directions. The whole bay is well protected from all winds, and it is a perfect ‘hurricane hole’ based on that protection. Most of the island is surrounded by rocky ledges, but west side of the island where the MITA campsite is located has a landing beach which leads up to a grassy, somewhat marshy field where you can land at very high tide.
The campsite is accessible from the beach, and has room for several tents in the clearing. There are no paths through the woods on the island, but there is plenty of exploring to be had on the beaches off the campsite, especially at low tide. It is a good site, and biggest selling point is the well-protected anchorage.
The Hen Islands
Little Hen Island is almost a perfect campsite. I arrived at high tide, and landed on the large rocks right off the campsite. It is a small site, but perfect for one or two small tents. The ground is soft and flat, and is located just off the rocks and the water at high tide. There is a large rock behind the tent site, and plenty of trees, which both provide good protection in most breezes.
At low tide, Little Hen is connected to Big Hen with a sandbar, and there is another sandbar that almost connects to another island. Low tide is the only downside of this site because it is difficult to land, and more difficult to climb to the site from the beaches. It is helpful to know that landing is much easier on the beach to the West side of the sandbar connecting Little and Big Hen, since it has deep water leading to the beach at low tide, and the East side is VERY muddy, and very shallow. I kayaked back to the site from the anchorage, which is to the Southeast, and good holding. Definitely go around to the other side at any tide leading up to high.
Little Hen is second only to Harbor Island off Merchant Island for camping so far.
Hurricane Island
Hurricane Island has a lot of history, with several iterations and uses. Most recently, the island has been turned into a non-profit STEM education center where students spend the summer learning about aquaculture and other science related curriculum. They use the old Outward Bound facilities, which include cabins where the students used to stay, shower and bathroom facilities, and a large kitchen and dining room used to accommodate large groups. Sam, who manages the island, is very welcoming and knowledgeable about the island, and encourages visitors to learn more about what they are doing there.
The MITA site on Hurricane is OK, but nothing to write home about, or nothing to write a blogpost about, but the history of the island, the ruins of the granite community. There is a path around the island, and it is well worth the effort. Be sure to take the path that leads up to the cliff overlooking the quarry. I missed it the first time I visited the island, and was amazed when I finally did find it. There are sweeping views up and down the coast, and a nice set of benches to reward you for the trip up.
Overall I agree with the 3 star rating from the Crusing Guide, mainly because the campsite is not spectacular. But the rest of the island is, so definitely add it to any itinerary.