I really like Rockland. I have been hesitant about it for years, and always say I don’t like to go because it is too crowded in summer. But the real reason is in intimidates me. There is a lot of commercial traffic, tight spaces you need to maneuver the boat I have been once before in the early season, and spend the night in a slip, and big harbor channels and rules that you have to follow. I have been once before a few years back, also very early season without much happening. This time I was going to get to know my way around and be prepared to return to brave the crowds. After all, I am planning to spend a majority of my time on the boat this summer, and Rockland is a key provisioning spot for food, fuel, dumsters, showers, laundry, etc. I can only go to Camden so many times.
I had a great experience the whole time there, starting with running into what my grandfather called the old American Eagle and its Captain John Foss. Captain Foss had been a staple of my childhood, and someone my grandfather always made sure to introduce is to as kids. I believe he started on the Lewis R. French, and then may have moved to the Heritage when it was launched in 1983 (my brother and I attended the launching with my grandparents). For the past many years, he has run the smaller American Eagle. When I saw she had docked I took the dinghy over to say hello. After asking through a crew member, he came right over, shook my hand and asked about my parents. He seemed well, and mentioned his kids were in Boston, one in PR and one at Google, and that although they’d love to be in Portland, they can’t seem to find the right fit since salaries are lower, and cost of living is now about the same. I hinted at my work situation, but didn’t want to worry him. I made a joke about quitting my job, and as I left he said, “you know the easiest way to get a job is to have a job.” Truer words I have not heard. Unfortunately, I can’t heed his advice.
After catching up with Captain Foss, I took my laundry in to Knight’s Marina, started a load, and took a shower. The shower felt great, although I’d forgotten my flip flops and had outsmarted myself by washing ALL the towels. And I finally got to shave. I know facial hair is back in style, but I can’t stand it and it actually irritates my skin. So shaving after four days felt great. I had some time to kill as the dryer was just starting, so I ventured into town, and walked Main St. Rockland is a vibrant place, and feels like it’s on the same path as Belfast. They have the world class Farnsworth Museum, the Strand Theatre, and my new favorite place to eat Main Street Market. I used to call this douche food, everything organic and GMO free. But I’m a convert. Oregon changed my whole perception on that. And this place does it well, from the prepared food to the market items. To be honest, on a trip like mine it’s all about the prepared foods, and I have two of the best meals I’ve had in a long time. One was a salad I chose the ingredients for, and the other was a breakfast sandwich with Egg, Bacon, Boursin, Caramelized onions, and spicy mayo on a baguette. Oh mama.
The other two places I found that I loved were the Island Institute and the Used Book store. I probably spend half hour in each store, basically doing the same thing. Looking at books and maps. I went through every book on Maine history they had at the used bookstore and found some gems. I literally spend $100 there, and that got me a 50% discount (so the value of the books was $200). John seemed a bit sad to see the bulk of a section disappear, but I couldn’t help myself and can’t wait to get into them. I’m hoping they will add some good local history and color to my entries as I continue to travel around the State.
My favorite part about the trip to Rockland was I took advantage of an opportunity I have known about for a long time, but haven’t had the chance to try. The Samoset Resort, one of the oldest, and arguably the nicest, on the coast allows boaters to pick up one of three moorings and use the resort facilities. Wow. That is an amazing tidbit of local knowledge, and something all visitors to Rockland should take advantage of. I’m sure people do, and it is likely impossible to get one of the moorings during July and August. But when I showed up on Thursday night, all morings were available, and true to their word, they did not charge a cent. The only difference from what I heard to what I experienced was the fact that you don’t have access to all the facilities, just the restaurant and the spa. But you have the lawns, the walk up, you are moored right off the breakwater with a private dock. Since the mooring is free, it’s already worth it. But the trick is, since you have access to the spa, you can get a spa treatment, and if you get a spa treatement, you can get access to the healthclub and the pools and steamrooms and sauna. While the massage may be pricey, it’s well worth it with all those things thrown in. I have been doing this kind of stuff throughout my travels. Staying nearby nice hotels and using their facilities, but in the way that they allow. It’s genius. And it will be a key theme of this blog. Glamping. Or something like that. I need a better hashtag if anyone has suggestions. I didn’t even end up needing to get a massage because I arrived just as the spa was closing, and since I was planning to get a treatment the next day they gave me access to the facilities and I had a nice shower and steam, then had dinner in the bar, which was really good. Then back out to the boat to sleep. $27 for dinner. I basically just paid for my books.
